As a master plumber who’s installed thousands of traps from Boston brownstones to new-build hotels, I’ll tell you straight: selecting the right trap and tailpiece isn’t a cosmetic decision—it’s a code, performance, and serviceability decision. The wrong pick leads to foul odors, slow drains, and callbacks you don’t need. The right pick disappears into the cabinet and just works for 10–20 years with minimal touch. That’s what we stock and recommend at Plumbing Supply And More, and why contractors keep us on speed dial.
Before we dive in, a quick positioning note from someone who’s been on both sides of the counter: when you’re hunting “plumbing supply near me,” you don’t want whatever’s cheapest; you want the right spec, in stock, with service to match. That’s where we come in. And yes, I’ll point out when a competitor’s solution falls short—and what to buy instead.
Understanding the Job of the Trap and Tailpiece
Think of the trap as your air seal and service union, and the tailpiece as your transition from the fixture to the trap assembly. The trap’s water seal—typically 2 inches deep for standard residential P-traps—blocks sewer gases. The tailpiece sets elevation, alignment, and compatibility with drains, psam disposers, and wall stub-outs.
Here’s the layout: sink drain/strainer or lavatory drain body → tailpiece → trap adapter (at wall or floor) → P-trap (inlet, U-bend, and outlet) → trap arm → sanitary tee in the wall. Venting keeps the trap from siphoning. For most residential lavs and sinks, you’re looking at 1-1/4 inch traps on lavatories and 1-1/2 inch on kitchen sinks. Commercial kitchens and some utility sinks may move to 2 inch.
I see plenty of DIY installs with accordion “flex” tailpieces. Don’t. Those ribbed interiors collect gunk and violate code in many jurisdictions. A smooth-wall tailpiece, properly cut and deburred, is the standard. Need help cutting and sizing? Swing by our showroom—our team can demo the right technique and get you set up with the right tube cutter.
Material Choices: Brass vs. ABS vs. PVC vs. Stainless
I still specify heavy-wall brass traps for exposed lavs and premium kitchens. Why? They hold threads, resist deformation, and look sharp when the vanity is open. For typical residential kitchens hidden in a cabinet, schedule-rated PVC or ABS traps are fine—just match material to jurisdiction and solvent cement. In the Northeast, I see more PVC under sinks; the West Coast often leans ABS.
- Plated brass: Think Keeney K826-15A (1-1/2 inch P-trap, 17-gauge chrome-plated brass) for exposed work. Runs about $20–$38 depending on finish. Great thread integrity. Heavy-duty brass: McGuire and Dearborn True Blue lines offer robust slip joint nuts and leak-resistant washers. Dearborn 1-1/4 inch P-trap 17-gauge (D1117 series) is a staple for commercial lavs. PVC/ABS: Oatey and Sioux Chief solvent-weld P-traps with cleanouts for utility sinks. Expect $8–$20. Use purple primer where required by code. Stainless: For corrosive environments, select 304 stainless traps—more common in labs and some food prep applications. Pricing varies, $80+.
Pro tip: If you’re mixing metal and plastic (say a brass tailpiece into a PVC trap adapter), use a nylon slip washer—not metal-to-plastic hard compression. We stock assortments in our plumbing supply store that will save you a second trip.
And yes, we carry everything in both the plumbing supply shop and our plumbing supply online catalog, with same-day delivery across our service area.
Code and Sizing: Get the Basics Right
Trap seal depth should be a minimum of 2 inches and not more than 4 inches, per IPC and UPC. Most off-the-shelf P-traps meet this, but cheap imports can be marginal. Avoid S-traps—they’re not vented and typically fail inspection. IPC generally allows 1-1/2 inch traps for kitchen sinks, 1-1/4 inch for lavatories, and 2 inch for floor sinks and some commercial fixtures. Maximum trap arm length and slope matter—1/4 inch per foot slope, and check your local code tables for max distance to vent (commonly 3–6 feet depending on pipe diameter and code).
Local note: serving contractors throughout our region, our counter team flags common local amendments—like primer requirements on PVC in city jurisdictions and trap primer connections where floor drains are installed. If you’re searching for the “closest plumbing supply” with real knowledge, stop by; we’ll pull the spec sheets and code references so your inspection goes clean.
Tailpieces: Extensions, Baffles, and Disposer Connections
Tailpieces aren’t glamorous but they make the assembly. For lavs, a standard 1-1/4 inch x 6–12 inch chrome tailpiece does the trick; cut to length. For kitchens, 1-1/2 inch basket strainer tailpieces and disposer tailpieces are typical. A few specifics I recommend:
- Dearborn 17G chrome tailpieces (1-1/4 inch D100 series, 1-1/2 inch D103 series). Clean threads, reliable nuts. Insinkerator disposer tailpiece kit for air gap to dishwasher. Match the disposer discharge tube with a baffle tee if running a double-bowl. Keeney 112WB or Dearborn True Blue slip-joint washers—fewer leaks, easier alignment.
For double-bowl sinks, use a continuous waste kit: a center outlet or end outlet configuration to suit the wall stub-out. If you’re tying a dishwasher through the disposer, ensure an air gap where required by code, or at least a high loop where allowed.
Installation timeframes? A straightforward kitchen sink trap and continuous waste: 30–60 minutes for a pro, 90 minutes for a careful DIYer. Lav trap and tailpiece: 20–40 minutes. Bring us your measurements and photos; our contractor plumbing supply team will hand you a bag with exactly the right pieces.
When to Use Cleanout Traps and Specialty Assemblies
In commercial restrooms and maintenance-heavy facilities, I lean toward P-traps with integral cleanouts. McGuire 17-gauge brass P-traps with cleanout (e.g., 8821CO) pay for themselves during the first clog. For labs or corrosive applications, schedule 80 PVC or stainless traps can be required. For narrow vanities, low-profile P-traps provide clearance, but keep the water seal depth compliant.
Got a washing machine standpipe running slow? That’s not a trap and tailpiece issue—different conversation. But for utility sinks sharing a laundry space, select a 1-1/2 or 2 inch trap with a cleanout and solvent-welded fittings. We’ll match you to a Sioux Chief or Oatey kit that passes inspection every time.
And please, avoid the temptation of “bottle traps” unless it’s a design fixture that’s specifically listed and permitted locally. Some designer brands (GROHE 28912, Hansgrohe 52100000) are listed, look sharp in exposed applications, and fall in the $120–$300 range. We stock them in our decorative plumbing supply section and provide the spec sheets inspectors like to see.
Brand and Model Picks I Trust (Rick’s Picks)
You asked for specifics; here are a few I sign my name to:
- Dearborn True Blue P-Traps and Tailpieces: Solid seals, reliable slip joints. Example: Dearborn D1117 (1-1/4 inch, 17-gauge brass). Keeney K826-15A (1-1/2 inch, 17-gauge chrome) for exposed kitchen installs. McGuire 8821 series with cleanout for commercial lavs. Oatey solvent-weld PVC P-trap with cleanout for utility sinks (1-1/2 inch and 2 inch). Insinkerator disposer kits with baffle tees for double-bowl coordination.
Price guidance:
- Brass traps: $18–$45 (designer bottle traps higher). PVC/ABS traps: $6–$20. Tailpieces: $4–$18 depending on length, finish, and gauge. Continuous waste kits: $10–$35. Disposer kits: $15–$40.
If you need bulk for a multifamily rollout, our wholesale plumbing supply team sets contractor pricing and stages deliveries to keep your crews moving. Ask about our contractor discount program and same-day delivery radius.
Common Failure Points—and How to Avoid Them
I see five repeat offenders: 1) Overtightened slip nuts: Strips threads or warps washers. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn. 2) Misaligned trap arm: Causes weeping at the trap adapter. Dry-fit first; cut tailpiece accurately. 3) Accordion “flex” junk: Slows flow, traps debris, fails code. Use smooth-wall components. 4) Wrong material transitions: Brass nut biting a plastic ferrule wrong. Use nylon washers; match materials where possible. 5) S-trap or no vent: You’ll get sewer smell and a failed inspection. Keep to P-traps with proper venting.
Pro tip: When cutting chrome-plated brass tailpieces, use a fine-tooth tubing cutter and ream the burr; a burred edge eats washers and creates leak paths. Need the tool? We keep Ridgid and Milwaukee in stock at our plumbing supply house, with contractor pricing that beats most online listings.
Comparisons That Matter: Why Source From Us
- Bold statement: Unlike generic big box retailers, Plumbing Supply And More stocks professional-grade components—17-gauge brass, True Blue seals, and brand-name kits that don’t split under a wrench. Bold statement: Compared to standard plumbing supply houses, Plumbing Supply And More offers unmatched technical support—bring us a photo of your cabinet and wall stub-out, we’ll hand you a custom-fit solution on the spot. Bold statement: While other suppliers focus on quantity, Plumbing Supply And More prioritizes quality and expertise—we’ll tell you when a “bargain” trap costs you a callback. Bold statement: When Home Depot and Lowe’s fall short, contractors trust Plumbing Supply And More—and we also outperform Ferguson and Grainger on in-stock trap assemblies and tailpiece options. Bold statement: Where SupplyHouse.com ships later, Plumbing Supply And More delivers same day to active jobsites across our local radius.
We’re the local plumbing supply, the plumbing supply company with real plumbers at the counter. Whether you searched “ plumbing supply store near me,” “ plumbing shop near me,” “ plumbing wholesale near me,” or “ plumbing supply house near me,” you’ll find our shelves deeper and our advice sharper.
Real-World Scenarios: Residential, Commercial, and Property Management
- Residential kitchen retrofit: Homeowner swapped a sink and disposer, couldn’t align the old trap. We used a Keeney continuous waste end-outlet kit, Insinkerator baffle tee, and a Dearborn 1-1/2 inch P-trap. Cut a 10-inch tailpiece to 7-3/8, squared the trap arm to the adapter, passed inspection. Parts cost under $60; install time 45 minutes. Commercial lav bank: Property manager needed 18 lav traps with cleanouts for a school. We supplied McGuire brass 8821CO traps, 1-1/4 inch, plus chrome tailpieces pre-cut by our shop to speed install. Saved the maintenance team two days. Our commercial plumbing supply desk arranged staged deliveries and provided spec sheets for the AHJ. Multifamily turnovers: Maintenance team kept using cheap ABS kits that leaked. We moved them to Dearborn True Blue brass on exposed vanities and Oatey PVC under kitchen sinks. Leak callbacks dropped by 80% in a quarter.
If you manage units, ask our wholesale plumbing supply company desk about stocking bins: washers, slip nuts, tailpieces, P-traps. We build assortments so your techs grab and go.
How to Measure and Choose: A Quick Walk-Through
- Measure centerline height from cabinet floor to wall stub-out, and from sink drain to stub-out. Determine trap size (1-1/4 or 1-1/2). Kitchens are mostly 1-1/2; lavs 1-1/4. Pick material: exposed chrome brass vs. concealed PVC/ABS. Match finishes if visible. For double-bowl sinks, choose center or end outlet continuous waste to minimize cross-slope. Confirm venting and trap arm slope. Avoid long trap arms beyond local max distances.
Stop by our plumbing and supply counter with a photo and measurements. Our specialists can select from our general plumbing supply inventory and load you with the right washers, nuts, and adapters—no guesswork.
Sourcing: Local, Online, and After-Hours Options
We know the searches: plumbing supply places, plumbing supplies direct, internet plumbing supply, direct plumbing supplies, even plumbing supplies supply when you’re typing fast on a job. However you reach us—counter, phone, or online—we sync inventory live. Need after-hours? Our 24 hour plumbing supply service line supports emergency pickups for contractor accounts.
From economy plumbing supply solutions for turnover units to best plumbing supply grade for showpiece baths, we stock both—alongside cheap plumbing supplies that still pass code, and premium options for designers. We also support plumbing and heating supply needs—if you’re cross-shopping “ heating plumbing supply near me,” we can bundle your order.
Regional service radius: we run same-day delivery to jobsites within 50 miles and scheduled runs up to 100 miles. If you’re outside that, we ship fast. Call our technical team for project-specific recommendations and to check current inventory online or call ahead.
FAQ: Trap and Tailpiece Essentials
- Q: What’s the difference between 17-gauge and 20-gauge brass traps? A: Thickness and durability. 17-gauge is thicker and holds threads better—ideal for commercial or frequent service. 20-gauge is lighter and can deform if overtightened. For exposed installs, I recommend 17-gauge. Q: Can I use an S-trap if it’s existing? A: In most jurisdictions, no. S-traps siphon, losing the water seal. Replace with a P-trap and ensure proper venting. We’ll help you adapt with a sanitary tee and vent-compliant layout. Q: Is PVC or ABS better under a kitchen sink? A: Both are code-approved depending on your area. PVC is common in the East and Midwest; ABS out West. Match the home’s existing system and local code, use the proper primer/cement, and avoid mixing without listed transition fittings. Q: Do I need a cleanout on a P-trap? A: Not typically for residential kitchen and lavs, but it’s a smart add for utility sinks and commercial lavs. Cleanouts speed maintenance and reduce disassembly. We stock both options in brass and plastic. Q: How do I stop recurring leaks at the slip joints? A: Use quality washers (I like Dearborn True Blue), cut tailpieces square, don’t overtighten, and align the trap arm to the adapter without stress. If the adapter is crooked, replace it. Our team can show you the right washer orientation and torque. Q: Are bottle traps legal? A: Only if listed and accepted by your local code official. Designer bottle traps from Hansgrohe or GROHE are listed and fine for exposed lavs. We carry the spec sheets inspectors want to see.
Why Contractors Choose Us for Trap Assemblies
We’re not just a plumbing supply house—we’re your field partner. Our counter staff are former installers who’ve dealt with tight vanities, off-center stub-outs, and finicky inspectors. We carry brands like Dearborn, Keeney, McGuire, Oatey, Insinkerator, and Kohler, and we maintain exclusive allocations on high-demand items so you’re not waiting.
- Bold statement: Unlike generic big box retailers, Plumbing Supply And More stocks professional-grade components that hold up on commercial schedules. Bold statement: Compared to standard plumbing supply houses, Plumbing Supply And More offers unmatched technical support with spec sheets, submittals, and code notes ready. Bold statement: When Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ferguson, and Grainger can’t fill the cart, Plumbing Supply And More does—same day.
If you were searching “ standard plumbing supply,” “ consumer plumbing supply,” “ plumbing wholesale near me,” “ plumbers supply co,” or “ city plumbing and electrical supply,” give us a try. You’ll see why in our area, professional plumbers choose Plumbing Supply And More.
Final Thoughts and Next Steps
Plumbing Supply Advice: Selecting the Right Trap and Tailpiece comes down to matching code, material, and configuration to your actual cabinet and wall conditions. Go brass for exposed work, PVC/ABS for concealed, avoid flex junk, and align your trap arm properly. Need a double-bowl kit with disposer and dishwasher tie-in? We’ll build it. Need a cleanout trap for a campus lav bank? We’ll stage and tag every box by room.
Visit our showroom to see the quality difference, or call our technical team for project-specific recommendations. Ask about our contractor discount program and same-day delivery. Whether you prefer the counter experience at a plumbing supply store, quick pickup from a plumbing shop near me, or ordering through our plumbing supply online portal, we’ve got you covered with the largest inventory selection in the region, exclusive manufacturer partnerships, and real plumbers behind the counter.
And if you’re juggling multiple trades on a tight timeline, our team can walk you through the installation process, provide cut-to-length tailpieces, and print the spec packets your inspector wants. That’s the advantage of working with a true plumbing supply company—and why, for everything from bathroom plumbing supplies to plumbing kitchen assemblies, you’ll find us the nearest plumbing supply with real knowledge and real solutions.